Saturday, May 30, 2009

The World’s On Our Wall

Today’s Friday, and we have just finished our third week of Term 3. Guess how many classes I taught so far…… If you guessed two, give yourself a nice punch in the ribs because you are correct. Two classes! Students spent Week 1 weeding the school compounds; students spent Weeks 2 and 3 building a fence for the soccer field. I’m not going to harp on this much, but let’s just put this into perspective: There are only 12 weeks in Term 3, and the first three have been wasted. Talking to my headmaster, I learned that this term our school is hosting sports on week four and having culture week (2 weeks of no classes) sometime in June. Counting revisions and exams, during 8 of the 12 weeks in Term 3 there are no classes. I hate how much my school is like a treadmill- everything about it is preventing me from making progress.

As an outlet to all the cancelled classes, I plucked one of my students, Prince, from a group of other students building the soccer fence. I instructed him to put together a rag-tag team of painters, and then we got to work on the World Map Project. Prince is one of the school’s artistically inclined students, having a penchant for drawing what he sees (he’s the one who helps me make science posters). Since the World Map Project requires precision, I figured he’d be perfect for the job. He, Barbara, Ahunu and Boapea have been working for almost one week now tracing grids, drawing outlines, and painting. I even snuck in some math, having them do measurements and use a protractor to get a perfect 2x4 meter rectangle. What they have so far looks amazing, and next week we should be finished. Given the amount of freedom they had while working on the project, a few mistakes were made. We would work from 7 to 1, or until the intensity of the sun phone checked us to stop.

As it stands, Guatemala is under water, the Koreas have been cloaked (ha ha Park), several countries, including Germany and France, seem to have been swallowed by Italy and Spain, and Israel (to some people’s delight) doesn’t exist on our map. The last thing really is to finish the Peace Corps logo and put a few major countries on the map. One of my PCV friends here also decided to paint the World Map Project, and this weekend I plan on helping her out some. Two World Maps should keep me slightly preoccupied from the nagging thoughts of cancelled classes.

Going back to school affairs, last week, no one, not the headmaster or the teachers were at the school this one day; but 80 students did… and me. Two teachers hadn’t shown up for two weeks. After finding out that eight of the twelve weeks of classes will be cancelled, I got in my first argument with my headmaster, whom I am very close with at my site. I argued that there is no structure at our school- teachers come and go as they please, there was no schedule for going to class or completing a projects dealing with sports or culture, and many students either stayed home or sat idle during school hours. What sparked the argument was when I started haranguing the headmaster about the need for extra classes, even though they were cancelled because students no longer had to pay for them. I said I’d do them for free, and he remained obstinate until I reminded him of the test I gave during the first week. This test was given to my Form 2s during an informal class- it had 40 questions and assessed their math skills at the basic level- addition, subtraction, division, multiplication, fractions, exponents, square roots, simple algebra and simple word problems. Everyone failed; mostly all the students couldn’t even subtract a negative number by a negative number. Based on my students’ performance during previous terms, I knew my students would fail. The point was to bring them back to reality, to squash their cockiness.

I convinced the headmaster to allow me to hold mandatory after school classes for 30 minutes to go over one part of the Math Basics Test (like subtraction or fractions). To make it more appealing, I paid for exercise books for every student, and pitted the Form 1’s against the Form 2’s. I would write four questions and go over each one. Then I would give another four and time the students to do the work on their own. Then, after 10 minutes, I stopped them and randomly chose a boy and a girl from each form to come to the board and write their answer. So far, these classes have been going well, but it’s only been two weeks.

I’ve also shifted my focus from formal classes to informal reading classes, which puts less pressure on the students to memorize, and they get to have fun learning. I started them on a chapter in their science books, one we won’t get to cover due to time constraints, and then we discuss it. I’m hoping to have labs like this. You might ask why I don’t just teach what I’m supposed to- well because the students and I don’t know when the next class will be. If I see the students aren’t doing anything I jump on the opportunity. Reading comp is something my students need to work on, and since it’s not for a grade, my students actually like to write what they read in the books. I emailed this company [Darien Books] to donate about 30 pounds of middle-school level books to us (they specialize in sending books to Peace Corps volunteers), but I have to wait 3 months for the order.
Next week the new volunteers, or trainees (not trannies), are coming in for training. I wish I could be at the airport to see their wide-eyed faces while we lob Ghanaian goods at them like every group did before us. I can't believe we've been here for one year, and that we are now the "old" group. At the one year mark, Peace Corps issues us orthopedic shoes, a cane, and gives us epson salt bucket baths on the weekends.

A little after arriving in Ghana, the new trainees are given five days to go, on there own, to a volunteer's site to see what life is like there- this is called Vision Quest. On top of staying with the PCV, the trainee is to observe and record what they see at the volunteer's site. I remember my Vision Quest host, Phil, in the Volta Region. Phil isn't a teacher, he is doing agriculture with the farmers in his community. He took me around town and gave me some pointers and background into being a PCV in Ghana. In about a week, it will be my turn to show the trainee around my site and be the host with the most. Luckily, the person I'm paired with is in science education.

This year, training and host families will be in the same place as when we were trainees- in and around Kukurantumi. When we were trainers, some of the Senior and Junior HS volunteers took turns coming and helping the Peace Corps staff with training. This year, instead of just education volunteers, the new group is double our size and has education, small business, water sanitation, and environment volunteers. A few of my friends in my group will go this year to train the new trainees. Training the new group takes a lot of time away from site, and since I'm so far behind at my school, I did not sign up for this year's training, though I really wanted to do it. On the bright side, the training site is about 2 hours from my home and I can crash it whenever I please.

Also, just in time for the trainees, we convened last week in Kumasi to put together and publish the first Ghana JHS teacher's manual. The manual was started 6 years ago by the first group to teach JHS, and contains the words of every JHS volunteer so far in Ghana, each contributing a section or tips. I wrote a section on professional relations with the school staff. Other sections include a year at the JHS, a day at school, a brief background into the Ghana Education System, and tips for teaching math, science and ICT. After reading the manual, I'm envious of the new volunteers.

Back at my site, I have a new way to relieve stress- weeding. I had bought this really nice machete to help my neighbor cut bamboo (we were building a new gate for his goats as well as a new kitchen), and found that I could take out several blades of 7 foot high grass with one swing. One of the women in my town who comes to the school and gives me fruit and home made food always jokes that we'll one day go to farm. I took her up on it, and we walked all the way out to her orange tree field now inaccessible due to the new elephent grass the rain brought. I loved every minute of weeding, and the motions reminded me of playing tennis back home. But the amount of sweat pouring out of me got my friend nervous, and after about two hours she pleaded that I stop. I told her I wasn't tired and it helped relieve my stress- she thought I was nuts. I found out she has a bad leg, so whenever I'm in town on the weekends, I've decided to go with her to her farm.

A few days later, I got a knock at my door, and when I opened it there was this little old man, with loads of kontummere (the elephent-ear looking leaves I love to eat) in his arms. The man spoke good English, and a whistle escaped the gaps in his teeth to accompany every word. He had the shakes as well, reminding me of Jell-O. Shaking and whistling, he introduced himself as Papa Kofi, and explained that he heard from people around town that I loved kontummere, and that he would like to pick some for me whenever he went to farm. I myself go and pick kontummere after school, which grows like weeds in some areas at my site. I thanked the man, and found out he lives right behind me. I plan on going for a visit sometime soon. Man do I have it made in the shade here.

A few days ago, a lizard the size of a small iguana had found its way into my house, and as I chased it to release it back into the wild, I saw this huge insect, something I've never seen perched, yes it was big enough to use the word perched, on one of the halwway's windowsills. The entomologist in me immediately told me to apporach with caution, but capture it no matter what. It was a fly the size of one of those large moths, with what looked like a probiscus that could suck a pint of blood from even the most thick-skinned of animal. I thought it was dead, but when I poked it with a rolled up magazine (Science, haha) it flew at me and I almost broke my skull falling on myself. Despite swatting and killing it, I was able to preserve the body. Then I stared at it for maybe 10 minutes, followed by a photo shoot- the bug might have well been a bikini model, I was taking so many pictures. I later found out that it is harmless, and doesn't even feed as a fly, it gorges itself as a larva, then mates in the adult stage. I think it was called a soldier fly. Good name for such a frightful insect.

Lastly, STARS is coming up in a few weeks. It dawned on me that I should invite the high school student I helped with Biology over the break- she's bright and told me she wants to go to college to become a doctor. STARS would be the best forum for her to go out and meet students with similar ambitions. Luckily, I was able to give her all the forms on time. I'm finding fundraising going much better now compared to when I started. I'm in Accra now sealing the deal with a company donating 100 STARS t-shirts and another providing cash donations. It's almost the 11th hour, but it looks like this year's STARS is going to be quite successful.

Ciao!

Music:

Life’s What You Make It- Talk Talk
Lovely Day- Bill Withers
Change- Sean Kingston
Think- Aretha Franklin
Here Comes The Sun- The Beatles
Disorder and Disarray- Rancid
Pull Up The People- M.I.A.
Don’t Let It Get To Your Head- Nat King Cole
Rogues- Incubus
Black Velveteen- Lenny Kravitz
Moi, Mon Âme Et Ma Conscience- Paris Combo
19th Nervous Breakdown- Rolling Stones
Hangin’ Around- Counting Crows
Bollywood to Battersea- Babyshambles
Don’t Believe A Word- Thin Lizzy
So He Won’t Break- The Black Keys
Bullet and A Target- Citizen Cope
Salute Your Solutions- The Raconteurs
Get Ready- The Temptations
Ooh Wee- Mark Ronson

Flowers in bloom

Weeding

Ghana lawnmower

The Bush Samurai and his lady

Let's make...a fence

World Map outline

Painting the World Map

Almost finished


Found this amongst the paint guards we used

Lord of the Flies


Another beautiful sunset in Otumi

Tuesday, May 5, 2009

A Vacation of Sorts

The second holiday of the school year is almost finished, and Term 3 is coming up. I would say this has been more or less a productive holiday, with some fun thrown in to make things interesting. I did not paint the world map with my students, unfortunately, but I felt that should wait until school opens and all the students are present. Besides, most of my students were busy picking oranges or helping their parents on the farm. Instead, I spent much of the holiday promoting the STARS conference around Accra. I also finished my section of the JHS teaching manual that will be introduced to the new volunteers in June.

Briefly, STARS is a five-day conference held for Ghanaian high school students at the Kwame Nkrumah University of Science and Technology (KNUST) in Kumasi. Each Peace Corps volunteer chooses two of their top students (a boy and a girl) to go to Kumasi to learn about leadership skills, science, technology, HIV/AIDS, as well as meet and pose questions to successful Ghanaians with various backgrounds. Keeping in mind transportation, food, accommodations, and various supplies, the event costs a few thousand dollars- well worth it in my opinion. Each year, the conference counts on grants, PCPP funding, and corporate sponsorship. It was my job to help out with corporate sponsorship in the Accra area.

Twice now I’ve been to Accra, speaking with different people from major companies in Ghana. It was an amazing experience to meet so many people at the top and bottom of these corporations. Several of the people were very supportive (verbally), but it was frustrating at times when most of the companies no longer were able to sponsor fundraising events-they told me this was due in part to the economic crisis. It felt so strange though to come from my town of Otumi, where there are no buildings taller than one story, to Accra, where I would hit the button for the 17th floor and be zipped up to a luxurious office. I met Ghanaians with various foreign accents, like English and even American. On my beat around town, I met a student studying journalism at the university, a manager of a small business looking for a good summer camp in the States for her children, a division 1 (?) football player, and several Ghanaians who traveled the world, each with their own novel-worthy stories.

The first time I left for Accra, I had been gone for about 5 days, giving the care taker’s children enough time to run amok through my house- I mean they must have gone ape shit- breaking things and eating my food. When I got home, I found my bike in shambles, mud on the floors, and open, empty containers of what used to have contained food. I was pissed. Every day, the children (11, 9, and 5, I think) are supposed to come into the house to turn the lights on/off, sweep, and clean the compound. If I am not home, they have a spare key. When I found the children, I brought all three of them to the house to show them what they had done. It turns out that the parents went to Togo for a few weeks, leaving the children to stay at home and take care of each other- so I had no parents to complain to. Immediately I took back everything I had given them over the months- the books, the jump ropes, the toys. I told them they lost the privilege of coming into the house for a long time, and I made them sweep and mop up the mess they left throughout the house. The days following my return from Accra, the children stayed away from the house, and probably cringed when I cursed at a newly discovered item damaged by the children (i.e.- broken bike pump, discarded shaving cream). The thing about all this was I probably would have gotten into the same mischief if I had been their age and left alone- My idea was to play the parent, I had to be tough on these kids. I even threatened to tell their primary school teacher, but the looks on their faces said that would result in a terrible beating, so I laid off- my point was crystal clear to them though- what they did was not right.

Over time I warmed up to them again, and when the parents eventually came, we had talked and the problem seemed to be resolved. The parents were extremely apologetic, and the children felt genuinely sorry for what they had done. Now, all is well and things are back to normal- in fact I just got climbed the mango tree to watch the sunset with the little ‘uns. I hope I handled the situation well… but it did give me practice as a future parent (god help us all).

Around the time I started warming up to the children, I left my site again- this time I was off to watch a festival in northern Ghana as well as make my way back to Accra for a second round of STARS fundraising, knowing full well the children wouldn’t try the same things again. Of course, when I got back, everything was in its place.

As for going up north, I went to Techiman [in the Brong Ahafo Region] to participate in the Apoo Festival, where people in Techiman and Wenchi get to call out and criticize their fellow citizens for wrong doings done onto them- the citizens are even allowed to call the chief out on things as he sits on his thrown in front of the huge crowd. As hostile as this event sounds, the mood was quite the opposite- people were having a grand old time dancing, drumming, and marching in the streets. I was even led to the chief of Techiman to pay my obeisance amidst the sea of Techimanians. There were a few cross dressers in the crowd, for fun mind you, and people wearing masks and paint on their face. I was left wondering what happened to the people after the event- like what would the chief do if you really went up to him and gave him a hard time for this or that.

While in Techiman I finally purchased a smock (see pictures below), mainly for the occasion, from the market in town. I’ve been itching to get one for a while, and now I have something formal to wear for festivals in my own town. Smocks are more of a northern Ghana thing, and I wanted to wait until I went up there to purchase one.

Walking my way towards the smock section of the market, I passed booth after booth of juju supplies- juju is a major part of Ghana’s traditional beliefs, where juju is a type of magic dealing with the occult. At each booth, one could find a myriad of strange objects, mostly coming from animals of all sorts. There were crocodile skulls, husks of blowfish, birds, and local bush rats. There were live chameleons in cages hanging over their deceased and desiccated relatives. Monkeys’ paws. Gold rings and spears. Dark cloths. Wild cat fur and porcupine spines. It seems like anyone buying this stuff would be up to no good.

Around my town, I have only seen one stall selling juju items, mainly because almost everyone around me is either Christian or Muslim. In talking with my headmaster and a few people in my community, juju and traditional beliefs are “evil” and don’t belong in Otumi. There are some, though, who are Christian or Muslim and still hold traditional beliefs, like some of the people I met in Kukurantumi during training. All opinions aside, the things I’ve seen dealing with traditional beliefs are all intriguing to behold. Traditional beliefs are so ingrained in Ghanaian society, people often speak of juju with fear and seriousness, with anecdotes like someone seeking retribution and employing a juju man as an agent of vengeance . The papers sometimes have a story on juju, like the one I read yesterday blasting some sort of practice called “sikadura” (using juju to get money) as evil.

Up north, I enjoyed my new favorite food- wagashee. Wagashee is simply fried cheese, and in a land with a serious cheese deficiency, wagashee is highly sought out by Westerners like me. The cheese is not all melty like you might think- it’s spongy, but not in a bad way. I love the stuff, and I must have spent a small fortune eating my weight of the snack since I don’t get it in my area. I asked around my town today, and so many people never even heard of the stuff, with one vaguely knowing about it.

I also went out of my way to get some other stuff, the name of which I did not bother to remember because it tasted horrid. Never mind that the reason I got it was because some friends played a practical joke on me, saying “Oh, Darren, when you go to the north you HAVE to try this pastry shaped like a ball and coated with powdered sugar. The inside tastes like chocolate!” While on a lorry, I spotted someone selling the food off their head and beckoned them to come and sell me one. Mouth watering, I bit into the donut-whole-sized thing, and met a taste not too far from wet cement. Ha. Ha. It was a good joke. Good enough for me to lay on the new volunteers coming in June. Ha. Ha. Ha.

Also while in the north, I visited Kintampo Falls, an excellent spot for relaxing. The landscaping for the place was incredible, and taking it all in, I let every aggravation go. Eventually, several groups of Ghanaians and tourists alike showed up, breaking the tranquility and creating a different atmosphere of contagious exuberance. Since it’s not too far out of the way from the main road, I might have to visit the falls again in the near future.

Meanwhile, one of my PCV friends and her five pieces of luggage had just arrived back in Ghana after a brief visit to the States. She called me from Accra asking where I was, and miles away from the place I could only slap my head in remorse- I had let her down again. At least I’m consistent. I’m not what you’d call a good friend in many cases, but I do try, which also sometimes back-fires- like when I bottled some pineapple jam I had made and put it in her mail box at the Accra office, only to find out that it leaked on her packages and went bad. I guess I’ll hold back giving her the home-made, battery operated fan/spray bottle I made for her the other day.

After the north, I headed back to Accra for another round of STARS fund raising; more or less for follow ups with the companies I talked with on my first visit. Overall, I would say my meetings were successful- a big stationary supplier in Ghana donated a generous amount of items we would have had to buy for the conference; also, a major television station signed on to cover two of the five days of the event. I’m kicking myself for not going to the television station in the first place- so many of the companies I talked to were interested in promoting their own company, and mentioning “media coverage” would have surely gotten my foot in the door. It’s not too late though!

That’s about it. Next week, we start Term 3 at school, and we’ll just have to see how that goes. I’ve tweaked a few things in my teaching approach that might get things moving faster, although it might be to the detriment of some of my students- more about that in my next post. I have to hold my students accountable for learning at least the basics, and if that means keeping them for class even though all the other classes have been dubiously cancelled, so be it. I’m also trying to hatch another scheme, this time involving a huge parent/teacher workshop that includes my school and the rest of the schools in Otumi. After interviewing some of the teachers and community members, I’ve gathered that parents don’t really promote education outside of the classroom, and even if they did, many of them might not know how to best go about getting their children to study. This in turn frustrates the teachers, who allege that students are not retaining anything taught in class. Perhaps after having a meeting with all the teachers, the chief, and some of the parents, we could hatch a large workshop that would turn things around here. I think we can actually do this. Later!

Wine: Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County 2007

Music:

That Old Pair of Jeans- Fatboy Slim
On Green Dolphin Street- John Coltrane
So What- Field Mob
Take Me Out- Franz Ferdinand
Fa Fa- Guster
Shining Star- Earth Wind & Fire
Escape- Hoobastank
Hints- Jose Gonzalez
Holes to Heaven- Jack Johnson
Mega Bottle Ride- Joe Strummer and the Mescaleros
After School Special- Jurassic 5
I Predict A Riot- Kaiser Chiefs
Touch The Sky- Kanye West
Of Moons, Birds & Monsters- MGMT
Jumping Jack Flash- The Rolling Stones
Odo Ho Akyire Noa- Amakye Dede
Luv 2 Luv Ya- Timbaland
Gravity Rides Everything- Modest Mouse
Blue Monday- Fats Domino
Get Down- Nas
Money (That’s What I Want)- Barett Strong
Monkey- Counting Crows
CrushCrushCrush- Vitamin String Quartet
On the Sunny Side of the Street- Diana Krall
In A Big Country- moe.
Last Stop: This Town- The Eels
Fade In-Out- Oasis
Unwritten- Natasha Bedingfield
Pay to Play- Nirvana
Sofisticated- Stereo MC’s
Superstition- Stevie Wonder
Juju Items


Monkey's paw




Medicinal tree bark

Tailor making a fine smock


Being forced to dance


Under the sub-chief's umbrella

One of Techiman's sub-chiefs


A thronging crowd

Drummer

Dancer

Lover (I meant to tell you about her earlier, I swear!)

Kintampo Falls lounge area


Kintampo Falls

Wagashee (fried cheese from the north)- delic!

I was told this is bean paste. It looks, tastes, and has the consistency of wet cement.